Friday, August 7, 2009

20 Questions Tag

I've been tagged to answer 20 questions!

Zebra Print Purse1. One thing you cannot leave the house without?
My purse... does that count? I guess if I really had to choose just one thing it would be my keys so I could get back in haha

Eve Pearl Makeup2. Favorite brand of makeup?
That is a really hard one because I don't use just one brand. I find the best products no matter what brand they are and just because one brand is good at making one thing doesn't mean they're good at making others. If I could only use one brand for the rest of my life I think I would go with Bare Escentuals or Eve Pearl.

Calla Lily3. Favorite Flower?
Lilies! Calla Lilies and Tiger Lilies are tied as my favorite. I really like any lilies and I also like mini roses.

Forever 214. Favorite Clothing Store?
Forever 21 because they have tons of cute clothes and their clothes are small enough for me to wear. It's really hard to find clothes in my size.

Coconut Vanille5. Favorite Perfume?
I have an old bottle of a scent called Caribbean Vanilla that isn't made anymore. It reminds me of the island I grew up going to because it smells like a mix between the salty ocean and the sweet snow cones that we used to eat. My second favorite is Bath & Body Works
Ile de Tahiti Coconut Vanille.

Wedge Heels6. Heels for flats?
Definitely heels. I rarely wear flats because I have super high arches and they hurt my feet.

Grade A7. Do you make good grades?
Yes, I am usually an A student. I'm trying to finish a B.S. right now and hope to be accepted into graduate school within the next year.

Turquoise8. What are you favorite colors?
Any shade of turquoise or teal and black. I also like red and blue. I'm really big into color so it's hard to choose one or two colors.

Red Bull9. Do you drink energy drinks?
Absolutely not! They're horrible for the kidneys. Even the ones that are primarily B vitamins, people don't realize that certain kinds of B vitamins will pass the excess through your body but others can have excess that build up and negatively effect your health.

Grapefruit Juice10. Do you drink juice?
Yes, I love juice. I usually drink 100% juice not the 10% "juice" drinks. Grapefruit is my favorite but I like all kinds.

Pool11. Do you like swimming?
It's okay, I don't like cold water and used to be a competitive swimmer for a long time so it's lost a lot of its fun factor.

Fries12. Do you eat fries with a fork?
I'm all fingers... I like licking the salt off of my fingers too, I'm a total saltaholic. I'm trying to cut down but it's hard!

Olay All Day Complete Moisturizer13. Favorite moisturizer?
Olay all day complete for sensitive skin. It's the only moisturizer I can use without breaking out. I have a blog post about moisturizer.

Wedding Rings14. Do you want to get married later on in life?
Later on? How about now ;) I'm not too young to get married.


Angry Cat15. Do you get mad easily?
Not anymore... life is too short to spend all of your time being angry about everything. I brush most things off now.

Ghost16. Are you into Ghost Hunting?
No, but I used to love haunted houses when I was younger. Actual haunted houses, not the theme park types.

Steep Stairs17. Any phobias?
Very steep inclines... I'm not scared of heights, but I'm scared of falling down things like stairs and really steep hills. I've fallen down stairs several times.

Biting Nails18. Do you bite your nails?
Not usually, I carry clippers with me. Sometimes I bite the skin around my nails but I've really cut down on doing that.

Person Leaving Body19. Have you ever had a near death experience?
Several. That would be a whole other story.


Coffee20. Do you drink coffee?
Only decaf soy espresso drinks. I don't drink caffeine or lactose and regular drip coffee is too hard on my stomach.

I tag TiffanyD, RenRen, Emily, Christine (Temptalia) and SoRo

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Hello, Lovelies. Just an Update

I haven't posted anything in a few days, but I have good reasons!

First of all, I took the day off Saturday. I mean completely off, I wasn't blogging or emailing or finishing contracts. I went to lunch, the MAC store and a couple other stores with my friend and it was a lot of fun. Okay, I worked a little. I ended up putting all of the eye shadows I depotted Friday night into a MAC palette that I removed the tray from. It fit all 29 eye shadows from the Ulta 52 blockbuster plus 4 coastal scents hot pots. Tutorial on how to depot with pictures coming soon!

Sunday I did makeup for a photo shoot for head shots with 2 lovely ladies. One is an up and coming model and the other has experience doing catalog work. They both photographed so well, I will have pictures coming soon.

I always have meetings all day Monday, plus I started a forensic psychology class that will last until the middle of August. It is a very interesting class.... disturbing too from the true stories haha. If you don't know what forensic psychology is, it's psychology pertaining to the law which includes evaluating peoples' competence to stand trial, being a therapist in a prison, etc.

Unfortunately I'm going to miss the shoot at the studio that I wanted to do today because I'm working in another city, which I'm really bummed about.

These are the articles I have coming up:
  • How to depot eyeshadows and place them into palettes
  • How to repair broken eyeshadows and blushes
Then I will go back to the series of articles all about one specific type of makeup item to build from the foundation up.

Friday, July 10, 2009

Setting Powder

Setting powder has many functions: setting makeup so it doesn't come off, mattifying, absorbing oil, as well as others, depending on the product. Many setting powders diffuse the light being reflected off of the products on your face, giving it a more matte or even airbrushed appearance.

You should be getting all of your coverage from your foundation and concealer. You should not attempt to get more coverage from your setting powder, it should just give your face a softer look and help the foundation and concealer to stay on longer. The one exception is for those who use mineral makeup over liquid foundation, but you need to have a very light hand when doing this or it will look fake.

All liquid and cream foundations need to be set because if they aren't, they can melt off of your face as it's combined with oil and heated. Setting powder can also be used on top of mineral foundations to soften the appearance. The same rule about liquids and creams apply to other products like eyeliner and cream eyeshadows - they always need to be set with powder. This article is about setting foundation.

If you need a full description of the application tools, please see the previous foundation articles.

Types of Setting Powder
    Loose Powder - Laura Mercier
  • Loose - This is powder that comes in a jar and isn't pressed or packed in any way. Loose powder may come in colors, translucent or transparent. Colored or translucent powders usually contain talc and other traditional ingredients. Transparent powders are usually silica based. If you have an allergy to either of these products, make sure you check the ingredients before purchasing. I use loose setting powder and carry a travel brush with me.

  • Pressed Powder - MAC Mineralize Skin Finish
  • Pressed - This is powder pressed into a compact. It's convenient to keep in a purse or for traveling. It also usually has traditional ingredients, like talc. If you can afford multiple ones, you can throw one of these in your purse, one in your bathroom, anywhere you might need it for touch ups. You can keep a travel brush on you to apply this or some come with a spot to place a puff or round sponge.

  • Mineral Setting Powder
  • Mineral - This is a special loose powder made to use on top of mineral foundation. It is also made of mineral materials. You don't really need to use a setting powder with mineral foundation, but it will diffuse some of the light reflected by the minerals to give your face a softer look. It will also help to absorb more oil. You will need to carry a travel brush to use this one too for touch-ups.
You can use any type of setting powder on top of any kind of foundation, feel free to mix and match products if you prefer certain types over others.

Application Methods
    Power Brush
  • Powder Brush - This is the most common tool used with setting powder. It gives a light dusting of powder just so it sets the foundation and will absorb the oils. Powder brushes come in several sizes and shapes, but usually they are big, round, and puffy with a longer handle. The larger and rounder the brush, the more evenly dispersed the product will be placed. Work a little powder into the bristles and gently apply it all over your face over foundation. Some set with powder lightly and some work it into the skin. It depends on the products that you are using and how you prefer to apply makeup. I prefer to buff a very light amount of powder into the skin all over. If you just brush the powder across the skin and don't blend it in at all, you can have a chalky look.

  • Kabuki Brush
  • Kabuki Brush - Some people use a kabuki brush to set powder. This is especially good for people who want to buff setting powder. They are denser than powder brushes, but not as dense as buffer brushes. Buff the powder into the skin in a circular motion evenly all over the face. The Laura Mercier powder works really well with a kabuki brush. This is a good way to get a natural looking finish instead of having the powder sit on top of the skin.

  • Buffer Brush
  • Buffer Brush - This can be used for serious coverage. Some people use a liquid foundation and a mineral foundation on top as a setting powder for really full coverage. You will apply the powder just as you would apply mineral foundation by buffing it in a circular motion into the skin. Do not buff with pressure over a wet foundation like a cream or liquid that does not dry/set itself at least somewhat or you can smear the makeup off.

  • Cosmetic Sponge
  • Cosmetic Sponge - Yes, these can be used for powder too. I would recommend using a wedge sponge. To set with a cosmetic sponge, you have to use it dry. Get a little powder on the sponge, you only need a small amount to set foundation. Gently roll the powder onto the skin. You want to use a pressing motion, rolling from one side to another (left to right or vice versa). This will really set the foundation well and prevent shine.
You will not want to use flat brushes like a foundation brush because it will apply the powder too thick and you can end up with a cakey or streaked look. I do not like using puffs to apply powder because you will be much more likely to get the cakey look from poor application. If you only use a puff for quick touch ups in your purse that's fine, but a brush is always better.

Recommended Products

Laura Mercier Loose PowderBest Talc/Overall Setting Powder: Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder in Translucent
  • Creates a soft focus appearance
  • Lightweight with sheer coverage
  • Absorbs Oil
  • French cashmere talc based
  • This is what I use on my clients and what I will use myself when I need to purchase new setting powder
  • Also comes in beige (warm) if you find the translucent makes your skin too cool toned
  • $34/1 oz or $20/0.33 oz at Sephora (1 oz is a huge container)
Bare Minerals Mineral VeilBest Mineral Setting Powder (Overall #2): Bare Minerals Mineral Veil (Original Formula)
  • All natural minerals - talc, silica, paraben, sulfate, fragrance, and dye free
  • Sheer coverage
  • Oil absorbing
  • Comes in 4 formulations, however I only recommend the regular mineral veil
  • I currently use this, but will be using Laura Mercier when I run out
  • $19 / 0.47 oz at Sephora, Ulta, or Bare Escentuals
Make Up For Ever HD PowderBest Silica Setting Powder: Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish Powder
  • 100% mineral silica powder
  • Slightly mattifying
  • Does not dry out skin
  • Completely translucent
  • Used by professional makeup artists for TV, movies and photo shoots
  • $30 / 0.35 oz at Sephora
MAC Set PowderIndustry Standard: MAC Cosmetics Powder
I didn't specify a particular kind because they have all kinds that are used:
  • Select Sheer / Pressed
  • Select Sheer / Loose
  • Mineralize Skin Finish
  • Mineralize Skin Finish / Natural
  • The most common MAC setting powder used by professionals is Invisible Set Powder, but it's only available at Pro stores or ordered online with a MAC PRO card (you need to be a professional in the industry to get this card)
These are all quite expensive. I do like giving less expensive alternatives, however I just haven't found a powder that doesn't cause break outs that isn't high quality (and high price tag). I have not tried either, but I would recommend trying E.L.F. Mineral Booster or Everyday Minerals Finishing Dust. They should have the same ingredients as the Mineral Veil. I use the Everyday Minerals mineral foundation and is the same quality as the Bare Minerals foundation. I will include these to try next time I have an order to place.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Concealer

Concealer is used to cover imperfections, such as blemishes and discolorations that cannot be covered by foundation. You may apply concealer before or after foundation, however it's recommended to apply it afterward because you will need to use less concealer once the foundation covers what it will and you could smear the concealer off while applying the foundation.

Kat Von D ConcealerLiquid Concealer
This may come in a tube with or without an applicator. If it comes in a tube without an applicator, you can use your ring finger or a concealer brush to apply it. It may already come in the form of a pen or with a doe foot applicator like lip gloss. Liquid concealers are easy to blend into the skin as well as foundation. Blending concealer out with a wet sponge is the best method in my opinion. Some liquid foundations specify that they need to be applied before foundation.

MAC Studio Finish ConcealerCream or Stick Concealer
Cream concealer may come in a pot or as a stick. If it comes in stick form, you may be able to apply it directly to the skin and blend it out with either your ring finger or a concealer brush. Cream concealers in a pot will require a concealer brush. While you may be able to stick your finger in there and rub it on, you have the potential of contaminating the makeup with bacteria from your hands. You can blend cream concealer out with a wet sponge.

Pencil ConcealerPencil Concealer
Some concealers come in the form of a pencil. They are like cream concealer, but have a consistency similar to lip liner. You can apply it directly to your skin and blend it out. These are best used for small blemishes. For larger areas, you will need to use a liquid or cream concealer.

Everyday Minerals Intensive ConcealerPowder/Mineral Concealer
Mineral concealers are like mineral foundation, but more intensive. They cover imperfections just as normal concealer would, but they are in powder form. They look very natural and are the easiest to blend. You will need to apply it with a concealer brush.

Eve Pearl Salmon ConcealerUnder-Eye Concealer
There are many types of concealers made just for under the eyes. Yellow concealers were made to counteract what was thought to be a purple color to the skin, but the color is actually blue. You will end up with green under your eyes because yellow + blue = green. This is why yellow concealers do not work as well. A "salmon" or orange concealer is the best to use for blue under eye circles. These concealers are usually in cream form. Any mineral concealer can be used under the eyes and they do make salmon colored under eye concealers as well.

Suggested Products

Eve Pearl Salmon ConcealerBest Salmon Under Eye Concealer: Eve Pearl Magic Salmon Concealer
  • Makes under eye circles magically disappear
  • Comes in 4 shades and a color trio for makeup artists
  • Easily blendable
  • Has skin improving nutrients, just like the HD Dual Foundation
  • $42 at Eve Pearl
Kat Von D ConcealerBest Non-Salmon Under Eye Concealer: Kat Von D Tattoo Concealer
  • Full coverage for under eye circles
  • Creamy and blendable
  • Natural looking
  • Multitasking concealer
  • Comes in 3 shades
  • $25 at Sephora
Everyday Minerals Abbott ConcealerBest Mineral Under Eye Concealer: Everyday Minerals Abbott's Pick Me Up
  • Blend of sunlight and peach colored concealer
  • Covers dark under eye circles
  • Gives an uplifted look
  • A little goes a long way, the product seems to last forever
  • $2.50 - $8 - at EverydayMinerals.com
Everyday Minerals Intensive ConcealerBest Overall Mineral Concealer: Everyday Minerals Intensive Concealer
  • Full coverage mineral concealer
  • Blends perfectly into mineral foundation or skin
  • Can be used dry or wet for more coverage
  • A little goes a long way, the product seems to last forever
  • Comes in 3 shades
  • $2.50 - $8 at EverydayMinerals.com
Coastal Scents Concealer PaletteBest Concealer Palette: Coastal Scents Professional Camouflage Concealer Palette
  • Creamy, easier to blend than the Make Up For Ever palette concealers
  • Full coverage that can be thinned with mixing medium or moisturizer
  • Comes with 10 colors in one palette - good for makeup artists or for people whose skin tones fluctuate greatly throughout the year
  • Can be combined with moisturizer to make foundation if needed
  • $16.95 / 1.05 oz at CoastalScents.com
Dermablend FoundationBest Intensive Concealer (Moderate to Severe Flaws): Dermablend Cover Creme Foundation
  • For moderate to severe skin flaws
  • 12 hours consistent color wear
  • Water resistant and smudge resistant when set with setting powder
  • SPF 30
  • Can be used as a foundation or concealer
  • Comes in 21 shades
  • $32 / 1 oz at DermaBlend
MAC Studio Finish ConcealerIndustry Standard Concealer: MAC Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer
  • Creamy, opaque concealer
  • Long-wearing and water resistant
  • Fragrance free
  • Non-comedogenic
  • Enriched with antioxidants
  • Contains silica to absorb oil
  • Comes in 14 shades
  • $15.50 / 0.24 oz at MAC Cosmetics

Loose Powder and Mineral Foundations

The most common loose powder foundation is mineral foundation. There have more brands of mineral foundations to count these days and you can even make your own! The benefit to mineral foundations are that they let the skin breathe and do not cause breakouts in people who are acne prone. I suffered from cystic acne for many years and mineral foundation was the only kind that I could use without breaking out. I like to wear mineral foundation for the no-makeup makeup look with a little SPF protection when I'll be outside during the summer.

They usually only contain 3-6 ingredients that are all natural. They should not contain talc, oil, fragrances or preservatives. If you have a sensitivity to titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, mica, bismuth oxychloride or ultramarines make sure you check the ingredients before using them. Different brands use a different combination of these ingredients.

Mineral foundations can also be used as mineral concealers, although separate mineral concealers exist. Both synthetic and natural bristle brushes can be used with powder foundations.

Application Methods
    Kabuki Brush
  • Kabuki Brush - As previously mentioned several times, this will give you medium coverage. Swirl the brush on the powder to pick up powder and work it into the depths of the bristles. Tap off the excess powder, most of it should be within the bristles, not sitting on top. Buff the powder into the skin with the brush in a circular motion. These can be purchased at stores like Sephora and Ulta. For less expensive brushes, see CoastalScents.com or StarsMakeupHaven.com.

  • Buffer Brush
  • Buffer Brush - This is my favorite brush to use. It can give sheer to full coverage, based on the amount of product you use. Again, swirl the brush on the powder to pick it up into the bristles. Buff the powder into the skin in a circular motion. You can achieve full coverage by layering or using more product, assuming you are using a product that is buildable. This brush gives a flawless finish. These can also be purchased at stores like Sephora or Ulta.

  • Powder Brush
  • Powder Brush - This will give you sheer to medium coverage. If you really wanted to layer and buff, you might be able to get full coverage out of this brush. It is a handy brush to have because it can be used with any powder product. Everyone should have at least 2 powder brushes, one to use for foundation and/or setting powder and a second to apply blush. The larger and puffier the brush, the more dispersed and even the product will be placed. I would suggest the Posh Powder brush, it's very soft and full.

  • Foundation Brush
  • Foundation Brush - Just as with liquid foundation, a foundation brush can be used. This will give you full coverage. When I don't have the room to carry a buffer brush, I like to use the foundation brush in my Posh travel brush set to apply mineral foundation. The denser the foundation brush is, the more even and full coverage it will apply.

  • Puff Jar
  • Self Dispensing Puff or Brush - These are really interesting inventions. You place the product into a little jar or brush handle and it makes its way out through a hole in the middle of the puff or brush and then onto your skin. Coverage is really at the mercy of the size of the hole and how many times you want to try to apply the product. I bought one so that I wouldn't have to carry a brush on me, but I found it be a lot more work and if you clean the puff regularly, you will lose a lot of product. If you don't clean the puff, you will have a bacteria filled applicator. Novel idea, but for practical use I wouldn't recommend these.
Suggested Products

Everyday MineralsBest Mineral Foundation for Oily Skin: Everyday Minerals Foundation in Semi-Matte or Matte
  • Comes in 4 different formulas (semi-matte, matte, intensive and glo)
  • Does not contain bismuth oxychloride, the ingredient that can make other mineral foundations creamy and overly shiny.
  • Comes in 44 different shades
  • Get a free sample of 3 foundation colors, 1 concealer and 1 blush for the cost of shipping
  • Natural SPF 15
  • My favorite mineral foundation
  • $2.50 (5ml) - $12 (25ml) at everydayminerals.com
Bare MineralsBest Mineral Foundation for Dry, Dull Skin: Bare Minerals Foundation
  • Creamy consistency
  • Gives skin a natural glow
  • Comes in 15 shades
  • $25 / 0.3 oz at Sephora, Ulta or Bare Escentuals
  • Starter kits are also available for $60
Maybelline Mineral PowerBest Drug Store Mineral Foundation: Maybelline Mineral Power Powder Foundation
  • An alternative if you can't order Everyday Minerals online or need something less expensive
  • Talc, oil, fragrance and preservative free
  • Comes with a small kabuki brush
  • Comes in 8 colors
  • Warning: Description claims it contains no fillers, however the ingredients list includes some traditional chemical ingredients
  • $10 / 0.28 oz at most drug stores or Ulta